The 2004 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées, was a little disappointing because it was reduced (needed air) and never fully expressed its potential, both of terroir and vintage. Chardonnay, even if disappointing on its own, tends to goes well truffles. This was certainly true of the Embrazés. Chef Stephane Léger of Le…
Tag: butter
Picnic in the train
Sunday. Train ride to Montpellier. The TGV will take us there in a little over 3 hours. As soon as we are out of Paris, and the window is divided horizontally between blue sky and green fields of summer, we pull out the picnic. We start by opening the wine: a 2003 Meursault Les Tillets…
Maria, Oh! Maria @ Regalade in Beaune
There was only one line in the email: “Does anyone know how to spell La REGALADE and frogs legs or what???” With that we knew that we would have to make a trip to see Maria. Not only to keep our client happy, but also to get some food into our bellies after a long…
Sqala: the ultimate Moroccan breakfast
I asked the waiter to explain what some of the choices were. A lot of the words and names of dishes were things I had never heard of. I was trying to make sense of it all… “Or you can have the breakfast assortment.” My eyes widened as he told me all the things that…
Verget Chassagne Montrachet Pimont 2004
The best white Burgundies of 2004 come from Cote d’Or. Why? Because Cote d’Or had, on average, lower acids and higher alcohols than Chablis or the Maconnais for climactic reasons. Verget harvested very late in Chablis which is why their 2004 Chablis are some of the best Chablis ever produced. Pimont is a village lieu…
Potato and truffle
We tried this new race of potato that we have just discovered called ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ (literally: eye of the partridge) given the red spots that it has on the outer skin. The potato was luke-warm, the butter was put on the potato cold, but started to melt immediately. Truffle was raw….
Butter or olive oil? That is the question.
Guess what? I don’t know if it was the fact that the olive oil was so fresh, so pure, so perfect. That nuttiness, that fruit, that earth, that terroir. The oil went better with the truffle than the butter. The sweet creaminess of the butter perhaps made the truffle aroma denser and more…
What was in the glass to go with these truffles?
1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée We needed something that was complex and rich enough to be able to marry well with the truffles. 1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée More nutty, more evolved than the Clos de la Barre we had several months ago, It went wonderfully with the truffles because the acidity of the 2006…
Saltpepperlime 