Tag Archives: bitterness

Behind the scenes @ Le Jardin Gourmand

They were just back from Rome, to get away while the work was being done. Work being a total make over of the restaurant Le Jardin Gourmand. « We had to do it to be ready to face the next 10 … Continue reading

Posted in 1996, 2002, Burgundy, FOOD, France, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, What is in my glass? | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Tang, Coquilles and St Julien

I’ve mentioned Resturant Tang before as one of my absolute favorite places in Paris. I know a lot of his dishes, but on my last visit, he surprised me with this scallop and spicy soy sauce recipe. Scallops (Coquilles St Jacques, … Continue reading

Posted in 2004, FOOD, France, Paris, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Christian Etienne and unexpected truffles…

The streets of Avignon are dead on this wintry night with the exception of a few Chinese tourists. How did they get here? Where is everyone else? We arrive late at Christian Etienne, but when we open the door, we … Continue reading

Posted in 2007, FOOD, France, Restaurants, Rhone, TASTE TRAVEL | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Haddock and beets @ Le Chassagne

I have a soft spot for chefs who use beets. Surprisingly complex aromatically with an interesting mixture of red fruits and earthiness, beets are an under-rated vegetable. My most recent visit to Le Chassagne, chef Stefane Léger brought out a … Continue reading

Posted in 2001, Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

end Ch9 day

Short hand in the notebook and constant translation from French to English. After a day of stains on teeth, hands and notebook pages. After barrels here, tanks there, old wood foudres, and multiple blends. Different spices, fruits, and flowers. After … Continue reading

Posted in 2008, 2009, FOOD | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Sqala: the ultimate Moroccan breakfast

I asked the waiter to explain what some of the choices were. A lot of the words and names of dishes were things I had never heard of. I was trying to make sense of it all… “Or you can … Continue reading

Posted in FOOD, Morocco, Restaurants | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Psychedelic risotto @ Castel de Tres Girard

It was what we call bonus sunshine. Sun when everyone said it would rain. The kind of day where you feel strange putting on a big coat. But after an hour’s tasting in a cool cellar, you’re really glad you … Continue reading

Posted in Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Sqala: mise en bouche

  The Kemia Mauresque, were actually a selection of cooked vegetables that the waiter told us were Moroccan salads. All served cold. Artichoke (farthest away) with tomato was delicately spicy. Tender artichokes. Seemed generally typical of Mediterranean cuisine, something the … Continue reading

Posted in Morocco, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Mosconi-a ray of Italian sunshine in the Grund of Luxembourg

The Grund has something of a Latin feel to it. The Latin quarter of Luxembourg. Winding little streets-if only a few of them. Small houses. People walking around. Somewhat of a night life. And a true taste of Italy…. Da … Continue reading

Posted in 2003, FOOD, Luxembourg, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, WINE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Truffles with sea urchins… an unusual start

The Duc flips out over sea urchins (Oursins, in French). I quite like them too. This time of year, we have them on Sundays as a special treat. We especially like the ones that come from Iceland, as they are … Continue reading

Posted in FOOD, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Le Chamarré de Montmartre: magic from the islands

  I happened to be tasting through the wines of Thierry Despres, of Grande Maison in Monbazillac. Whose wines can rival the most expensive and notorious sauternes at a fraction of the price. I know. I’ve done blind tastings before … Continue reading

Posted in 2005, FOOD, Paris, Restaurants, WINE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Summer Nicoise Salad (and, surprisingly, Vincent Dureuil Janthial 2006 Red Burgundy)

Nicoise is what we like to have in the evening when we are feeling veggie starved because it is light, digestible, and full of flavors. It is a dish that is built upon the marriages of different bitternesses.   What … Continue reading

Posted in 2006, Burgundy, FOOD, Recipes, what am I drinking with this dish?, What is in my glass?, WINE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Red or white with fish: reply to a reader

A reader asked: ‘why do you think there is a general notion that fish MUST be with white?’ That is a great question (but a tough one): I’d like to think that it is an easy formula that people like … Continue reading

Posted in what am I drinking with this dish? | Tagged , | 4 Comments