Egly Ouriet 2014 disgorgements

  Egly Ouriet is family estate of 4 generations The Grand Cru terroirs are on the villages of Ambonnay (7,8 ha) Bouzy (0,3 ha) and Verzenay (1,6 ha). The 1er Cru terroir is in Vrigny, 2 ha of Pinot Meunier Average age of vines is 40 years.   Brut 1er cru “les vignes de Vrigny“…

Tang, Coquilles and St Julien

I’ve mentioned Resturant Tang before as one of my absolute favorite places in Paris. I know a lot of his dishes, but on my last visit, he surprised me with this scallop and spicy soy sauce recipe. Scallops (Coquilles St Jacques, in French) are in season now here in France. It is rare to find a…

Sidewalk inspirations: alternative foie gras

It happens when he is walking down the street. Who knows what is going through his mind. And then, suddenly, something emerges. Clear. Precise. A mission. Monkfish liver and oysters… It has to do partially with a dish that Antoine Heerah at the Chamarré did for us not long ago, he presented it as ‘foie…

Truffles and Chardonnay @ Le Chassagne

The 2004 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées, was a little disappointing because it was reduced (needed air) and never fully expressed its potential, both of terroir and vintage. Chardonnay, even if disappointing on its own, tends to goes well truffles. This was certainly true of the Embrazés. Chef Stephane Léger of Le…

Verget Chassagne Montrachet Pimont 2004

The best white Burgundies of 2004 come from Cote d’Or. Why? Because Cote d’Or had, on average, lower acids and higher alcohols than Chablis or the Maconnais for climactic reasons. Verget harvested very late in Chablis which is why their 2004 Chablis are some of the best Chablis ever produced. Pimont is a village lieu…

Brittany Spider Crab and Petit Chablis

  Cooking the crab: Place the crab in a large enough pot (mine was just barely big enough for this bigger than I expected crab!) Fill with cold water amply salted (sea salt is preferred). Do this by taste. It should be like seawater. You don’t want the crabmeat to lose the seawater taste in…

Left-overs call for Margaux

An evening of left-overs. Therefore no photos because I didn’t know it was going to be so good. What it was: Poached salmon with fatty coppa (Italian ham) on top. Salmon and pork go really well together or reasons of texture, inherent fattiness and a certain sweetness. Because of the fattiness, I think a red…

Sardines with coriander seeds: electric combo

Boil the rice in a bouillon scattered with the coriander grains- un-ground. Mix in a large marinated artichoke heart with a little bit of olive oil.  Sautée the fresh sardines with salt and pepper in a very hot frying pan with olive oil. You want to sear the skin to give bitterness to match the…

Margaux Marquis de Terme 2004 Les Gondats (4eme Grand Cru Classée)

Even though the 2004 vintage in Bordeaux was not well reviewed, I have always enjoyed it. A ‘normal vintage’ in between two drought vintages (2003 and 2005-although no one talks about it) most of the 2004s I have tasted have shown a lot of freshness, precision and harmony with very decent concentration. And because it…

Le Jardin Gourmand in Auxerre: summer garden in your plate

Jardin Gourmand: flowers and salad   Sit down on their wildly sensual terrace for a visit with chef and owner Pierre Boussereau and Olivier Laplaine (front of the house) and you will quite literally get Pierre’s garden on your plate. Infinite varieties of greens, salads, herbs and flowers give you a real taste of summer….