Picnic in the train

Sunday. Train ride to Montpellier. The TGV will take us there in a little over 3 hours. As soon as we are out of Paris, and the window is divided horizontally between blue sky and green fields of summer, we pull out the picnic. We start by opening the wine: a 2003 Meursault Les Tillets…

spoon of the moment: tuna and raw beet

Inspired while doing the Saturday morning marketing. Tuna belly: the kobe beef of the sea. Fatty. Tender. Complex. Meaty. With the bitter tendency of red meat. Looking at fresh produce at the Organic Market Boulevard des Batignoles (Paris XVII), I saw a bunch of raw beets which inspired me.  Surprising aromas of dried earth and…

Mosconi-a ray of Italian sunshine in the Grund of Luxembourg

The Grund has something of a Latin feel to it. The Latin quarter of Luxembourg. Winding little streets-if only a few of them. Small houses. People walking around. Somewhat of a night life. And a true taste of Italy…. Da Mosconi is not just any Italian restaurant. It is a vibrating expression of the place…

Quick, and good value: Sushikai Beaune

Yes, I know. Another Japanese restaurant in Beaune, you say. Why ? Well, it is light, digestible, and a bit of variety never hurts. And I think Pinot Noir goes well with a lot of Japanese food. Because of all the bitterness and aromatic spice. After driving by Sushikai for years, I finally stopped there. It…

Dutournier’s Carré des Feuillants luncheon menu: a 2-star steal

    His pistachio and trout roe amuse bouches were superb. The bitter-sweet aspects of both ingredients married perfectly. The prawn, melon and curry combo was interesting. The prawn was just slightly over cooked, but the sweet melon and the bitter curry fantastically enhanced the prawn. The oyster with sea-weed was very zen and true…

A bright spot in a gastronomic desert: Relais de Reuilly in Champagne

Hats off for the Relais de Reuilly in the western part of the Marne Valley in Champagne. Located on the road parallel to but south of the Marne River. After 28 years owning and running this small hotel restaurant, chef Martial Berthuit still has enthusiasm, energy and ideas. Walking a fine line between creativity of…