2013 was a late harvest, but with low alcohol (about 12.5°). In spite of low alcohol, grapes were ripe and yellow. This is the reason for a slightly yellow color and ripe aromas. These ripe aromas were amplified by a warm harvest (grapes were warm when picked= 24°C /76°F) But acidities were good on average…
Category: Burgundy
2014 harvest in Burgundy – it’s time!
In Burgundy, the 2014 Harvest started the week of September 8th in the Maconnais, Chalonaise and Cote de Beaune with beautiful weather. Promises of large crop are reassuring growers who have suffered 4 consecutive small harvests (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013). Those who still tried to deliberately curb yields for concentration have almost perfect grapes. For reds…
Behind the scenes @ Le Jardin Gourmand
They were just back from Rome, to get away while the work was being done. Work being a total make over of the restaurant Le Jardin Gourmand. « We had to do it to be ready to face the next 10 years » said chef Pierre Boussereau with a laugh as he welcomed us into the empty…
Truffles and Chardonnay @ Le Chassagne
The 2004 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées, was a little disappointing because it was reduced (needed air) and never fully expressed its potential, both of terroir and vintage. Chardonnay, even if disappointing on its own, tends to goes well truffles. This was certainly true of the Embrazés. Chef Stephane Léger of Le…
Haddock and beets @ Le Chassagne
I have a soft spot for chefs who use beets. Surprisingly complex aromatically with an interesting mixture of red fruits and earthiness, beets are an under-rated vegetable. My most recent visit to Le Chassagne, chef Stefane Léger brought out a smoked haddock and beetroot appetizer with not one, but two different preparations of beets. What…
Maria, Oh! Maria @ Regalade in Beaune
There was only one line in the email: “Does anyone know how to spell La REGALADE and frogs legs or what???” With that we knew that we would have to make a trip to see Maria. Not only to keep our client happy, but also to get some food into our bellies after a long…
Psychedelic risotto @ Castel de Tres Girard
It was what we call bonus sunshine. Sun when everyone said it would rain. The kind of day where you feel strange putting on a big coat. But after an hour’s tasting in a cool cellar, you’re really glad you kept the extra lining in your coat. It’s actually a tough season for tasting in…
Chambertin 1979 Louis Trapet
This old thing was kicking around the cellar for reasons that are long to explain. The Duc thought it might be dead. But it was very much alive. (the vintage was written by hand because the neck label with the vintage fell off in very damp storage conditions) Well, it had lost all of…
Verget Chassagne Montrachet Pimont 2004
The best white Burgundies of 2004 come from Cote d’Or. Why? Because Cote d’Or had, on average, lower acids and higher alcohols than Chablis or the Maconnais for climactic reasons. Verget harvested very late in Chablis which is why their 2004 Chablis are some of the best Chablis ever produced. Pimont is a village lieu…
What was in the glass to go with these truffles?
1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée We needed something that was complex and rich enough to be able to marry well with the truffles. 1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée More nutty, more evolved than the Clos de la Barre we had several months ago, It went wonderfully with the truffles because the acidity of the 2006…
Quick, and good value: Sushikai Beaune
Yes, I know. Another Japanese restaurant in Beaune, you say. Why ? Well, it is light, digestible, and a bit of variety never hurts. And I think Pinot Noir goes well with a lot of Japanese food. Because of all the bitterness and aromatic spice. After driving by Sushikai for years, I finally stopped there. It…
Saved by the September sun and wind: 2008 harvest in Burgundy
Hands on the sorting table
A couple of minutes on the sorting table
Grab a sécateur (gardening shears), put on a pair of gloves and prepare your eyes to sort out imperfect grapes. Spent some time working the sorting table this year in Burgundy. An important year to have a sorting table (more details on why soon). Not as physical as the actual picking of the grapes, its a…
Bissoh in Beaune
Baby Zucchini and zucchini flowers @ Bissoh OK. I realize that eating Japanese in Burgundy is not the first thing that comes to mind. However, getting good Japanese food in France that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg is pretty tough. (And those few establishments require reservations long in advance.) And, besides, I like…
Summer Nicoise Salad (and, surprisingly, Vincent Dureuil Janthial 2006 Red Burgundy)
Nicoise is what we like to have in the evening when we are feeling veggie starved because it is light, digestible, and full of flavors. It is a dish that is built upon the marriages of different bitternesses. What we use: Green lettuce, green beans, cooked artichoke hearts, a ripe tomato, a couple of…
Le Jardin Gourmand in Auxerre: summer garden in your plate
Jardin Gourmand: flowers and salad Sit down on their wildly sensual terrace for a visit with chef and owner Pierre Boussereau and Olivier Laplaine (front of the house) and you will quite literally get Pierre’s garden on your plate. Infinite varieties of greens, salads, herbs and flowers give you a real taste of summer….
Saltpepperlime 