On cold blustery days (the kind we’ve had a lot recently) the tarps covering the market stalls look like they’ve been pulled extra-tight together, huddling up close in solidarity. On the nicer, sunnier days, there is a little jazz trio playing notes that dance with the patches of sunshine through the alleys of the market.
Come rain or come shine, if I’m in Paris on Saturday morning, I make it to the Bio market on the boulevard des Batignolles (between Place de Clichy and Metro Rome). Something about it always puts me in a good mood and makes me see the lighter side of life after a long week of work.
There are only 2 markets like this in Paris, Saturday at Batignolles and Sunday at Raspail. The both run in the morning, getting going around nine AM through one PM. The Raspail market is bigger with only one central alley, making it harder to circulate in the crowd and more impersonal. Batignolles is smaller, running on a block and a half with two alleys, but it feels like a village market, making you forget that you are in the center of Paris. All of the stands are organic or biodynamic and you can find almost everything from the obvious fruits and vegetables, to several cheese mongers, a couple of butchers and fishmongers, an Italian delicatessen, flower stalls, and Normandy cider…
It’s at the cider stand that I usually start my visit. That is because the cider man (who is also a poet) brings a little lady who makes crepes to order. All organic ingredients. Buckwheat or regular flower for the crepes and a choice of fillings from organic homemade jams too hazelnut-paste. I always go for the ultimate: egg and cheese with salt and pepper. Everything is fresh. Everything probably comes from their back yard in Normandy. It is delicious. Warm. Crispy on the edge and moelleux (soft) at the end. The egg and the cheese just taste as fresh as any you’ve ever had. The pepper adds a little wink and a kick to wake everything up. And, of course, a little glass of cider or poiré to wash it all down.
Ah!
Now I’m ready to buy my veggies for the week…
Saltpepperlime 