Truffles and Chardonnay @ Le Chassagne

Truffle dish with Chassagne 1er Cru Les Embrazées
Truffle dish with Chassagne 1er Cru Les Embrazées

The 2004 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées, was a little disappointing because it was reduced (needed air) and never fully expressed its potential, both of terroir and vintage.

Chardonnay, even if disappointing on its own, tends to goes well truffles. This was certainly true of the Embrazés. Chef Stephane Léger of Le Chassagne‘s truffle dish was three-fold. Buttered and toasted bread the size of a thumb coated with truffles sat next to an eggshell full of frothy egg foam and in a separate, in a small bowl, a cream of artichoke with truffles. Egg and truffle were fantastic together, as usual. Neutral and creamy egg allows a good truffle to sing its song loud and clear. The artichoke and truffle combo works really well too. The artichoke had been cooked enough so that it is sweet, no more bitterness. This went well with the sweet earthiness of truffle.

With these foods, the showed more purity through floral lemon butter, more like what I was expecting of a 2004 white Burgundy. And the mouth feel echoed the creaminess of the dish but brought in white pepper notes that refreshed and cleansed the palate in the finish.

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