In top restaurants, when I have been fortunate enough to have truffles, I have felt that the chef was going quite heavily on the butter. And thought it was done on purpose to enhance the flavors of truffles. Because of this, I always assumed that butter was the fat of choice to trampoline the wonder and magic of truffles….
My truffle man, Luc, is from Provence and makes his own olive oil. It goes without saying that he always serves truffles with olive oil. I’m not sure he even has butter in his kitchen. I got some of his fresh pressed 2008 harvest of oil-dense and chunky with a lot of sediment and pepper.
This made me wonder which is best with truffles. I had not ever had the opportunity to do a comparative tasting.
Guess what? I don’t know if it was the fact that the olive oil was so fresh, so pure, so perfect. That nuttiness, that fruit, that earth, that terroir. The oil went better with the truffle than the butter. The sweet creaminess of the butter perhaps made the truffle aroma denser and more coating in the mouth. But the pepperiness, the energy and the slight bitterness in the end ofthe mouth with the olive oil combo was electric!
Maybe the fact that truffles come from the same earth as the olive oil plays a role in the taste.(?)
Luc’s trick: chop up the truffle, soak in olive oil while preparing a fresh green salad, and pour the truffle oil onto the salad. Also a neutral base for explosive truffles. Also, not to miss: soak up any excess oil and truffles from your plate with fresh bread. Ah, simplicity!