Mosconi-a ray of Italian sunshine in the Grund of Luxembourg

The Grund has something of a Latin feel to it. The Latin quarter of Luxembourg. Winding little streets-if only a few of them. Small houses. People walking around. Somewhat of a night life. And a true taste of Italy…. Da Mosconi is not just any Italian restaurant. It is a vibrating expression of the place…

Chambertin 1979 Louis Trapet

This old thing was kicking around the cellar for reasons that are long to explain. The Duc thought it might be dead. But it was very much alive.   (the vintage was written by hand because the neck label with the vintage fell off in very damp storage conditions) Well, it had lost all of…

Truffle with raw scallops, olive oil, white pepper and salt

  This combo is perfect. These ingredients were made for eachother. The scallops are neutral enough and yet have a hint of gaminess that is very subtle. And the texture is suggestive of fattiness that carries the aroma and flavors of truffle. The olive oil gives a fruity, pepperiness that the truffle wears like a…

Andouillette and truffles

  For some reason, we got into our heads that Andouillette (tripe sausage) might go well with truffle because of the gaminess inherent in both ingredients. We boiled the Andouillette to cook it, and then sautéed it in a pan. It was a very good, very gamy andouillette. But the tripe aroma really dominated the…

Verget Chassagne Montrachet Pimont 2004

The best white Burgundies of 2004 come from Cote d’Or. Why? Because Cote d’Or had, on average, lower acids and higher alcohols than Chablis or the Maconnais for climactic reasons. Verget harvested very late in Chablis which is why their 2004 Chablis are some of the best Chablis ever produced. Pimont is a village lieu…

tiny shrimp and shaved truffle

This dish was disjointed. The shrimp seemed acid, not buttery enough by nature, given their size. Acidity is not something that goes with truffle. We should try giant shrimp next time.

Jerusalem artichoke, foie gras and truffle

Jerusalem artichoke (topinambour in French)-this is a root vegetable that the French elders detest because that and potatoes is what they ate during the war, and nothing else. Some great French chefs are bringing this veggie back into vogue. It is a great trampoline for both foie gras and truffles. A nearly perfect mixture. There…

Potato and truffle

We tried this new race of potato that we have just discovered called ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ (literally: eye of the partridge) given the red spots that it has on the outer skin.       The potato was luke-warm, the butter was put on the potato cold, but started to melt immediately. Truffle was raw….

Butter or olive oil? That is the question.

    Guess what? I don’t know if it was the fact that the olive oil was so fresh, so pure, so perfect. That nuttiness, that fruit, that earth, that terroir. The oil went better with the truffle than the butter. The sweet creaminess of the butter perhaps made the truffle aroma denser and more…