Truffles, foie gras on fresh baguette: made for eachother

    Foie gras (cooked, but cold) on a (cold) baguette with raw truffle. This is the best mixture so far. All of the ingredients shine and marry well. Maybe this is the reason that truffles go so well on neutral foods (noodles, gnocchi, potatoes, bread, butter, cream and eggs). Chefs must find in these…

What was in the glass to go with these truffles?

    1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée We needed something that was complex and rich enough to be able to marry well with the truffles. 1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée More nutty, more evolved than the Clos de la Barre we had several months ago, It went wonderfully with the truffles because the acidity of the 2006…

Oysters, foie gras and truffles…one bite

Next was something sort of inspired by Stephane Léger of Le Chassagne in Chassagne Montrachet. He put oysters and foie gras together. So why not try it with truffles? The foie gras was cooked and cold, slightly spicy but with no traces of Port or Cognac. The oysters was raw, Number 3 from the Grand…

Truffles with sea urchins… an unusual start

The Duc flips out over sea urchins (Oursins, in French). I quite like them too. This time of year, we have them on Sundays as a special treat. We especially like the ones that come from Iceland, as they are usually the most complex. But we never know which provenance the fishmonger will have. There…

the beginning of truffles…

I’ve never owned a truffle before. Never had access to the real thing. Until now. Well, my vegetable merchants sold me some Chinese truffles a few years ago. They looked like truffles, felt like truffles, but sure didn’t have the truffle aroma or flavor of truffles. I tried truffle oil which I found a little…

A different kind of fruit salad

Off the cuff. A ripe mango. A couple of kiwis. Some cucumber and chervil. It worked. The vegetal of the cucumber gave a freshness and herbality to the exotic fruits that made the combination very complex. Refreshing. Different. In retrospect, though, I should have poached the cucumber, to make it a little more Zen, texturally….

Le Chamarré de Montmartre: magic from the islands

  I happened to be tasting through the wines of Thierry Despres, of Grande Maison in Monbazillac. Whose wines can rival the most expensive and notorious sauternes at a fraction of the price. I know. I’ve done blind tastings before and Grande Maison was the ringer. The spiciness of his wines actually went quite well…